Real Gas Saving Tips

(Not for the faint of heart but tips that don’t include buying a new car)

1. No Cost

• Don’t start the vehicle until AFTER you’ve fastened seat belts, found your sunglasses, adjusted the seat and mirrors, etc. Don’t “warm up” a vehicle for more than 30 seconds. 30 seconds is more than enough time for the oil pressure and electrical systems to stabilize in a normally operating vehicle.
• Pump up your tires to at least what’s recommended by the owner’s manual (also on a pillar tag inside the driver’s side door). This decreases rolling resistance of the tires. For better performance, inflate tires to 2 or 3 pounds more than listed. I.e., put an extra 3 or 4 pounds in the front tires (where the weight is), and an extra 1 or 2 in the rear tires. No more than that. If you own an SUV your tire pressure for the truck/off road tires it came equipped with is likely purposely rated low in order to provide better off-road performance. However, that low tire pressure will rob you of on-road performance and fuel efficiency. Check tire pressure at least monthly. Never exceed the “max pressure” listed on the sidewall of the tires.
• Empty your vehicle of all unnecessary luggage, tools, toys, last winters sandbags and other dead weight. Be particularly wary of any excess weight placed above or behind the rear axle.
• Replace the spare tire and jack with 2 cans of “fix-a-flat” (compressed air with sealer) and a “plug” kit. Removing that 70 to 100+ pounds from its place above/behind the rear axle will be felt immediately with gains in performance and fuel economy. Do this only if you’re comfortable with the risk of not having the spare at hand. Ask yourself if you’d normally call someone (AAA, spouse, tow truck) to fix you up or get you home in the event of a flat tire. Fix-a-flat works on pretty much anything but a side-wall puncture but is always to be considered temporary. It’s very easy to use and will get you home and/or to a tire shop. A plug kit is a semi-permanent fix but is more difficult to use with the tire on the vehicle. After installing a plug you’ll still need to inflate the tire with the fix-a-flat. Note: During the winter, on the days that roads are icy/snowy (and only on those particular days), consider placing one or two small (40/50 lb) sandbags in the rear of the vehicle for added traction. If ever stuck, the bags can be opened and sand placed on the pavement to get you moving again. Remove the bags ASAP when the roads clear or fuel mileage will suffer.
• Use higher octane gas. Too much to write about, but here’s the very short version. Your owner’s manual will state the MINIMUM octane requirement for your vehicle based on compression ratio and other design parameters of the drive train. Higher octane fuel will NOT harm your vehicle. But, using too low an octane fuel (below manufacturers recommendation) is a self inflicted wound. “But, my engine doesn’t knock when I use cheap gas”……Even using the cheapest gas, today’s engines won’t knock due to the engine management system (EMS / on-board computer) retarding engine timing to correct for it long before you’ll ever hear the sound. Retarded timing reduces power and gas-mileage significantly. Also, have you noticed that although the price of gas goes up, the difference in price between grades of gas remains fairly constant. So, at today’s prices, pay the 6% more for gas (going from 85 regular to 87 mid-grade - or – from 87 to 91 if your owners manual recommends premium gas) and enjoy 8% to 10% better gas mileage. And, as gas prices continue to rise while the difference in price between grades doesn’t - the percentage of cost difference between the grades actually goes down thereby increasing the money saving advantage of using higher octane to you. Note: if you ever hear your engine knock – or - if you see no change in mileage after going up an octane grade, your EMS system is probably broken. Most likely a bad sensor (knock sensor for knocking noise, and oxygen (O2) sensor if your fuel mileage doesn’t change noticeably - or at all). Check your owners manual for recommended octane level, then experiment. After you prove the impact of going from regular to mid-grade, try going from mid-grade to premium. Check the percentage of cost difference to percent of mileage increase and use what’s best for your vehicle and what provides you the most bang for the buck (no cost because you actually make money doing this). Note: For many V8s the best result may come from a 50/50 mix of 87 and 91 octane fuel (effectively 89 octane).
• Do the math! Check your fuel mileage regularly. Fuel mileage is an excellent indicator of your vehicles health. Establish a norm and should mileage drop significantly for no apparent reason have the engine checked or tuned. Note: a bad O2 senor will NOT cause your check engine light to come on. Big note: In Colorado, when fuel is switched (by law) in November to the winter ethanol blend expect a 10 to 15 percent drop in fuel economy and expect engine performance to suffer - even to the point of it stalling at stop lights or having the check engine light flicker or illuminate. The quick fix is to go to the next higher grade of gas (i.e., 87 to 91 or mix the two) until mid February when the summer blend is reintroduced. See above. The percent of mileage increase will more than offset the percent of increased cost and you’ll notice the improved performance. Also note that the price per gallon drops a bit in November because the higher ethanol content makes it cheaper.
• Use the AC as sparingly as possible in town or, better yet, not at all. Today’s AC compressors offer less drag on the engine than the older ones, but nothing is free. However, on the highway you’re generally better off using the AC in most cases because closed windows greatly decrease air drag on the vehicle at highway speeds.
• Replace the engine air filter as scheduled (no cost because this should be done regularly).
• Have your car tuned up by a professional (no cost because this should be done at the scheduled interval – but is forgotten these days because the interval is so long). While there, ask if there are any recalls on your vehicle.
• Leave early. Don’t be in a hurry. Drive less aggressively (hard acceleration + heavy braking). Stay in the right lane so you don’t impede faster traffic.

Note for the hard core: When traveling long distances on the highway, slowing down too much may NOT save fuel!! Every engine has its own point (RPM) where it operates most efficiently (produces the most power on the least amount of fuel) IAW its displacement, transmission gearing, cam profile and valve train characteristics. For most street engines that point should be between 1500 and 3000 RPMs. You can experiment when driving at highway speed by watching your speedometer and tach to see where the RPMs are while at highway speeds. It takes time and patience to get the feel of the vehicle and check gas mileage over time. A dyno test of your vehicle will tell you quickly what you (the hard core) may want to know for about 80 dollars. You’ll see, on an X-Y plot, speed in miles per hour, RPM and a tailpipe emissions readout, under load, across the operating range of your vehicle. Look for the RPM point where the engine is running at its cleanest (lowest emissions). And, no, a dyno will not hurt your vehicle. It’s no more stressful on the vehicle than accelerating up a steep hill.

2. Low Cost

• Replace your current paper element air filter (right now today) with a high performance, K&N reusable air filter (Round figures: about $45.00 vs the $10.00 for a paper/disposable one). At today’s gas prices it will pay for itself in about 3 or 4 months but will keep working for years thereby making you money. Clean it as needed – usually every 12 to 24 months depending on mileage driven and environment.
• Regularly (at least every 24 mths) replace the “cabin air filter” in your vehicle. If you regularly use your air conditioner while driving, a restricted filter will significantly reduce air flow over the evaporator. The end result being that your AC compressor will be engaged and place a load on the engine for a longer period of time in order to achieve the same cabin air temperature drop. Cabin air filters are relatively expensive for what you get. Suggest you call a number of auto parts stores AND the dealer to compare prices. Filter is normally accessed by dropping the glove box door forward.
• Buy a good tire gauge and use it monthly. Check your tires in the morning when it’s cool or at least before you’ve driven the vehicle.
• Buy a good tire inflator/air pump that you can plug into your cars cigarette lighter (about $30.00 at Sears). You’ll be more likely to maintain good tire pressure on ALL of your vehicles if you can check and top off the tires at home at your convenience. (Don’t trust the pressure gauge that’s built into most of these. See above.) Note: you can also put this in the trunk with the fix-a-flat if you like. But if two cans of fix-a-flat don’t get you up and running, the tire pump won’t help.
• If you own an SUV or pick-up that never sees a dirt road or trail, replace your tires (when it’s time) with a good quality all-season radial car tire vs buying a light truck or off road tire. Car tires have less aggressive thread and therefore offer less rolling resistance (decreased drag = better fuel mileage), are quieter and many offer a mileage guarantee that, because you’re putting them on a heavier vehicle, you’ll be able to take advantage of when you replace them later. You therefore save money in two ways. Note: Light truck tires generally wear out quickly and do not have mileage guarantees.

3. Moderate Cost

• Add a cold air induction system to your vehicle. Yes, you can do this yourself. Most newer vehicles come with one. So, check first before you purchase something.
• Remove the muffler. Own a pick up truck or sports car that you’d like to sound good and get better mileage? Remove the muffler. Do not remove the Catalytic Converter - that’s against the law. Have the local muffler shop replace the muffler with a length of pipe (about 50 bucks). This will remove significant restriction from the exhaust system which improves fuel efficiency and mileage. The catalytic converter will act as a resonator and give the vehicle a pretty mellow exhaust note and generally keep you from getting pulled over for noise pollution. Note: this trick works best with V-8 engines.
• Borrow or buy an Engine Code Reader. Good code readers are available at most auto parts stores from 80 to 120 dollars. The tech at the store will show you where to plug it in (under the drivers side dashboard), read the codes and clear them using this device. A code reader is cheaper than a trip to the mechanic to turn off the check engine light for a loose gas cap or a sticky PCV valve. However, if the engine is in real need of service the light will reappear quickly. Note: many auto parts stores (Checker Auto Parts is one) offer a free service whereby they’ll plug in their loner and read the code – tell you what’s wrong, advise on the fix and (if possible) reset the check engine light for you. Call your nearest parts store and ask.
• Perform needed maintenance. If the “check engine” light stays on – don’t ignore it - have the car checked by a professional (see above first). Hint: While there, ask if there are any recalls on your vehicle.

Note: 2 very likely causes for the check engine light to illuminate are a loose gas cap and a dirty or stuck PCV valve. Both of these can be fixed by you. (1) Close your gas cap tightly every time. (2) The PCV is easy to locate under the hood by looking at the emissions hose routing sticker attached to your hood. Find it, take it out, and spray it with carburetor cleaner ($1.95) until the ball inside can be heard rattling freely. Reinstall the valve. If the check engine light doesn’t go out by itself it might be “latched” on and require resetting with a code reader or there may be something else wrong with the engine. If it won’t go off after performing the two items above – take the vehicle to a professional.

Extra credit

• Service your automatic transmission (Fluid change or total flush). If you haven’t at least had a fluid change or refresh in the last 3 years (regardless of miles) your tranny is very likely slipping somewhat (especially in stop and go traffic). Slipping equals excessive heat and loss of fuel economy. Excessive heat also equals early trans failure. Note: Check your owner’s manual. Servicing the tranny is scheduled maintenance that many forget or ignore. Also note: you can change or refresh your own fluid by purchasing a good hand pump for under $75.00 (under 30 for a cheap one) and pulling the fluid out (and replacing the exact amount taken out) through the dipstick tube. The first time you do this $250.00(+) service yourself the pump will more than have paid for itself. Note: I recommend having the dealer do the first service on a new vehicle so that the bottom of the tranny pan can be checked for debris. They’ll tell you if there are signs of failure or self destruction. FYI: Tranny filters are actually very course “strainers” vs “filters.” They don’t really capture and hold stuff. That’s why it’s pretty safe to refresh your own fluid via the hand pump method. If you want to see what your tranny strainer looks like in order to verify this, simply go to any auto parts store and ask for one (giving your cars year, make, model and engine info). Look, see, know. You don’t have to buy it.